On Sun, 01 May 2005 19:52:27 -0700, Evan Gatehouse
>> Thanks for replies to my earlier posting about securing my new fairleads. I
>> have managed to gain access to underneath the relevant bit of the boat, so I
>> can hopefully do a proper job viz a vis backing plates. Is it ok to use
>> stainless nuts and bolt with aluminium - if not, what should I use?
>Yes, if you don't mind a semi-permanent connection
>Use TEF-GEL (NOT Tuf-Gel) and the bolts won't become one
>with the aluminum. If this is an aluminum backing pad and
>not a cast aluminum fairlead you're talking about, then just
> drill oversize holes.
I've retrofitted almost everything with 1/4" aluminum I've custom cut
myself (replacing original dished fender washers and "acorn nuts") and
that's what I do. Overdrilling the plates by, say, 1/8" allows an
easier fit below deck, too.
I seal the holes through the deck with epoxy, drill through that, coat
the bolts with sealant, coat the piece (say a cheek block) with
sealant on the bottom, pop in the bolts, get my wife to hold the SS
bolts with a screwdriver, and then I put a bead on the plate below,
put the plate on the bolts, and tighten LIGHTLY until I get sealant
Then I lead the sealant set up for 24 hours to a week, depending on
what I'm doing. Occasionally this means covering the piece on deck.
I dog down the piece snugly and trim with a razor any excess.
The key parts are sealing the core with epoxy and coating the shaft of
the bolt with a very thin spiral bead. This leaves the head of the
bolt sitting in a little ring of bedding and prevents water getting
down the shaft, never mind into the core.
And the backing plate makes everything a lot stronger due to the
spreading of compression forces.
R. >> Stay informed about: Is it ok to use stainless bolts with aluminium?