Drywall screws to hold strip planking

On Mon, 03 May 2004 23:17:03 +0200, peter
wrote:

 >The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
 >encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.

==============================================

The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

Drywall screws are real handy around the house ... but ... I would not use
them around the boat ... they do "rust" ... and quickly.

peter wrote in message

 > Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
 > plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
 > studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
 > alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
 > really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
 > strip won't quite line up over the one in place.
 >
 > The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
 > encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
 > them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
 > detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
 > wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.
 >
 > It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
 > in.
 >
 > Another Pete
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

peter writes:

 > Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
 > plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
 > studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
 > alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
 > really dumb idea?

Have probably used at least 100 lbs of deck screws (coarse thread).

Built the male mold, and endless numbers of jigs, templates, etc.

All of these items would be classed as temporary construction.

Even used them to build the bulkheads which consisted of two sheets of 1/2",
4 ply, CDX plywood glued and screwed together with deck screws and then
glassed over on each side with 2 layers of 24 oz double bias glass and
epoxy.

Those deck screws are buried inside all that glass and resin. It was easier
to grind them flush than to unscrew them and then plug the holes.

They may rust, but I doubt it, and if they do, it's NBD, since they are
strictly now little more than core material.

For your application, I'd probably remove them where possible.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?

"Wayne.B" wrote in message


 > wrote:
 >
  > >The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
  > >encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.
 >
 > ==============================================
 >
 > The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
 > get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.

auerbach wrote:
 > Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
 > small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?
 >


 >

  >>wrote:
  >>
  >>
   >>>The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
   >>>encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.
  >>
  >>==============================================
  >>
  >>The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
  >>get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.
  >>
 >
 >
 >

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: <a rel="nofollow" style='text-decoration: none;' href="http://www.rutuonline.com" target="_blank">http://www.rutuonline.com</a>
Shameless Commercial Division: <a rel="nofollow" style='text-decoration: none;' href="http://www.spade-anchor-us.com" target="_blank">http://www.spade-anchor-us.com</a>
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 22:28:47 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:
 >Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
 >dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.

========================================================

With stips that thick, at what point are you able to remove the
screws?
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

"auerbach" writes:

 > Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
 > small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?

The short answer is "NO".

The long answer is still "NO".

I've used the staple trick you describe /w/ a pneumatic staple gun, several
times, just not here.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

The galvanizing is not hot-dip but electroplated, so it's of no practical
added value in a marine environment.

"Wayne.B" wrote:


 > wrote:
 >
  > >The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
  > >encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.
 >
 > ==============================================
 >
 > The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
 > get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

Wayne.B wrote:

 > wrote:
 >
  >>Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
  >>dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.
 >
 >
 > ========================================================
 >
 > With stips that thick, at what point are you able to remove the
 > screws?

I pulled them as soon as the planking was finished so I would not grind
into the heads while doing the rough fairing.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: <a rel="nofollow" style='text-decoration: none;' href="http://www.rutuonline.com" target="_blank">http://www.rutuonline.com</a>
Shameless Commercial Division: <a rel="nofollow" style='text-decoration: none;' href="http://www.spade-anchor-us.com" target="_blank">http://www.spade-anchor-us.com</a>
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

peter wrote in message ...
 > Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
 > plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
 > studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
 > alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
 > really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
 > strip won't quite line up over the one in place.
 >
 > The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
 > encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
 > them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
 > detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
 > wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.
 >
 > It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
 > in.
 >
 > Another Pete

If it's not a huge project, you can use the stainless steel version,
that is what I do, usually pull em' after, but if I miss or break one
off, it does not matter. Another option would be bronze/silicone ring
nails and just countersink them and leave them in.
Scotty
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

The black sheetrock screws DO rust, though they won't if you completely
encapsulate them (that would mean from all sides). If you're concerned,
you can use galvanized or stainless decking screws.

peter wrote:

 > Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
 > plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
 > studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
 > alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
 > really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
 > strip won't quite line up over the one in place.
 >
 > The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
 > encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
 > them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
 > detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
 > wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.
 >
 > It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
 > in.
 >
 > Another Pete
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

Brian Nystrom wrote in message ...
 > The black sheetrock screws DO rust, though they won't if you completely
 > encapsulate them (that would mean from all sides).

Oh yes they will (proved it a few times).

 > If you're concerned,
 > you can use galvanized or stainless decking screws.

There is a bugle-head screw (same profile as a drywall screw) used for
cement backer board, commonly called by the brand name Durock in
America, which is structurally approved as corrosion resistant &
commonly installed over steel studs in landlubber construction, using
a SS eschutcheon (for Durock), and sometimes for light curtainwall
construction. It isn't galvanized and I don't think it's SS (not
close at hand to double-check either). It has stood up well in a
light marine environment for me, as well as the demands of
(hygroscopic) backer board often used in wet/corrosive locations like
ceilings over chlorinated swimming pools, tiled chemical treatment
rooms, etc. I no longer have the designation at hand, and local
tradesmen simply call them "Durock screws." They may only be
cadmium-plated (a guess). There are a variety of "sheetrock-like"
fasteners unknown to consumer markets, if you find them temptingly
easy to use - suggest check with a commercial drywall supplier or a
wholesale fastener house. Some have superior drive heads, too,
instead of that horrid Phillips affair that is so easy to booger.
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking 

On Mon, 03 May 2004 23:17:03 +0200, peter
wrote:

 >Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
 >plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
 >studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
 >alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
 >really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
 >strip won't quite line up over the one in place.
 >
 >The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
 >encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
 >them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
 >detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
 >wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.
 >
 >It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
 >in.
 >
 >Another Pete

Well I'll bow to the weight of opinion here regarding the rust, but I
will insist that I have used these screws for joinery projects for
nearly 20 years and I have yet to see one fail through rust. I have
used them in all situations and the worst rust I have seen is a little
surface rust where the screwdriver tips have worn away the sheridising
(or whatever it is called) as it slipped. These screws are made to be
plastered over. But if you all insist......it's back to the wooden
dowels; it's not much more work really.......sigh..............

Another Pete
 >> Stay informed about: Drywall screws to hold strip planking